Rabbit Adoption and Awareness Day ~ May 2, 2010

February 18th, 2010

 You’re invited to a
Rabbit Adoption and Awareness Day!

Sunday May 2, 2010Single rabbit_sm
11 Am – 4 PM
at Peninsula Humane Society in the Auditorium   

Meet all the wonderful rabbits waiting for adoption at Peninsula Humane Society! Adopt a bunny friend! Listen to veterinarian speakers, browse all kinds of rabbit-related merchandise, meet and talk with other rabbit advocates, and have fun!
 

12 Airport Boulevard
San Mateo, CA 94401
Phone 650.340.7022

Peninsula Humane Society is located at 12 Airport Blvd. in San Mateo, just north
of Coyote Point Park by the San Francisco Bay.

 Non- profit, Free admission, Donations gratefully accepted.  Please leave your doggie friends at home!

Please check back for updates

For more information, please email: susanbunny@sbcglobal.net 

 

Health – Litterboxes

October 11th, 2009

House Rabbit Society recommends organic litters, made from alfalfa, oat, citrus or paper. (Some brands to look for: Care Fresh, Cat Country, Critter Country, Yesterday’s News, and Papurr) For a complete listing of litter types, see the litter boxes and liver disease article on the HRS website.

Stay away from litters made from softwoods, like pine or cedar shavings or chips, as these products are thought to cause liver damage in rabbits who use them. CatWorks litter has been linked to zinc poisoning. Swheat Scoop Litter should be avoided, because rabbits will often ingest it. Because it is comprised of wheat, it is very high in carbohydrates and can cause obesity, excessive cecal production, diarrhea, bacterial imbalance, and other health issues.

 

Munchkin in her litterbox, with CareFresh and timothy hay

Munchkin in her litterbox, with CareFresh and timothy hay

Another approach is to place a handful of hay in each box, or to simply use hay as litter. It is helpful to put several layers of newspaper under the hay, to absorb urine so that your rabbit is not standing in the urine. Most newspapers today are using soy-based ink, which is safe for your rabbit, but check with your local newspaper to make sure first. Obviously, you need to change the hay fairly frequently (daily), since your rabbit will be eating it. This method often helps to encourage good litter habits as well as to encourage hay consumption, since rabbits often eat at or near the same time as they use the litter box.

Clean litterboxes often, to encourage your rabbit to use them. Use white vinegar to rinse boxes out–for tough stains, let pans soak. Accidents outside of the cage can be cleaned up with white vinegar or club soda. If the urine has already dried, you can try products like “Nature’s Miracle” to remove the stain and odor. To dispose of organic litters, they can be used as mulch, or can be composted. Rabbit pills can be directly applied to plants as fertilizer. 

These are the only types of litter I recommend:

  • Litter made from paper pulp or recycled paper products, such as CareFresh or Yesterday’s News. These litters are very good at absorbing and cutting down on odors. These litters are harmless if ingested.
  • Compressed sawdust pellets: are inexpensive, highly absorbent litters used in many foster homes. They are made from softwood or hardwood sawdust, but they are not toxic because the phenolic compounds are removed during their manufacture. Their wood composition helps control bacterial growth and odors. Wood stove fuel pellets and Feline Pine are two examples of this product.
  • Litters made from Aspen bark are safe and good at absorbing odors.

I DO NOT recommend these litters; in fact I strongly DISCOURAGE you from using these:

  • Clay litter is dusty–if your bunny is a digger, the dust can make her vulnerable to pneumonia
  • The deodorant crystals in some clay litters are toxic
  • Clumping litters will clump inside the rabbit’s digestive and respiratory tracts (the latter if they manage to make enough dust to breathe) causing serious problems and often leading to death
  • Pine and cedar shavings emit gases that cause liver damage when breathed by the bunny
  • Corn cob litter isn’t absorbent and doesn’t control odor, and has the the risk of being eaten and casing a lethal blockage.
  • Oat- and alfalfa-based litters (available from Purina, Manna-Pro, and King-Soopers groceries [not sure what the geographical range of this chain is]) have excellent odor controlling qualities, but if a rabbit eats too much, they expand and cause bloating; these, too, can be added, with the bunny’s waste, to compost

These are Okay litters:

  • Newspapers are absorbent, but don’t control odor
  • Citrus-based litters work well, offer no dangers, and can be composted, but may be hard to get and expensive in some areas of the country/world.

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Ears, Teeth, Nails, and Eyes

October 11th, 2009

EarsBabette_tn

Ear wax can be lifted out with a cotton swab, being careful not to push on wax in the canal, or you can try a mild ear cleaner containing Chlorhexadine, such as Nolvasan Otic. Ear mite infestations cause typical changes to the ears; accumulation of a light brown crusty material that fills or nearly fills the external ear canal. The underlying tissues are usually very raw and irritated. In especially severe cases, lesions from the infestation may spread to adjacent areas of the head. The infestation may be treated with a topical preparation, although an prescribed injectable medication, Ivermectin, has proven highly successful in the treatment of this condition.

Teeth

Rabbits teeth grow continuously and must be checked to ensure that they are wearing down properly.While you’re brushing your rabbit or clipping his nails also look at his teeth to make sure there is not a problem.

Bunnies with straight teeth will keep them worn down with everyday gnawing and chewing. Buns with malocclusions, or crooked teeth, will need to have their teeth kept trimmed with guillotine-type clippers. If this occurs and is left untreated, the rabbit will not be able to eat and could starve to death. Your veterinarian can show you how to clip a rabbits teeth or they can clip them for you.

Nails

Rabbits nails can grow to be very long and sharp and will be uncomfortable for the rabbit. If the rabbit has light colored nails they are very easy to trim. You can see the blood inside the nail and you clip just before that point. The dark colored nails are harder to see where they should be clipped but it is still visible.

People are often afraid to clip nails for fear that they will cause the rabbit to bleed. You can purchase a product called Kwik Stop to keep on hand for this problem, but I’ve found that just holding pressure with a cotton ball works better for me. Your veterinarian will also clip nails for you. They should be checked every 6-8 weeks.

Eyes

Watery eyes or and eye discharge needs to be diagnosed by a vet. In addition to any medications or eye drops, the cheek needs to be kept dry and clean so the area will not become chafed nor the fur peel off. Clean tissues will absorb mild wetness. Ophthalmic saline solution (what people use with their contacts) carefully poured onto the cheek will crystallize the tears so that they can be removed with a clean flea comb. A touch of prescription anesthetic powder on a finger can be applied to the area if there are painful lesions.

Compiled with the assistance of Dr. Carolynn Harvey, DVM

House Rabbit Society

October 7th, 2009
20 years - 20,000 Rabbits
20 years – 20,000 Rabbits

The House Rabbit Society is an all-volunteer, non-profit organization with two primary goals:
1) To rescue abandoned rabbits and find permanent homes for them, and
2) To educate the public and assist humane societies, through publications
on rabbit care, phone consultation, and classes upon request.

Remember, when you shop at our store, Gray Rabbit
you can be sure that your money is helping animals!
I am also a supporter of NorCal Equine Rescue, located in Oroville, CA.
This organization rescues horses from auctions and neglect situations. 

Prince, one of many rescued horses at NorCal Equine

Prince, one of many rescued horses at NorCal Equine

 

Hay and Pellets

October 4th, 2009

 

Penelope enjoying timothy hay

Penelope enjoying timothy hay

An unlimited supply of fresh hay is the single most important part of a healthful rabbit diet.

 

 

Pellet diets were originally formulated as an efficient, economical, and easy-to-use method to promote rapid growth and weight gain in rabbits raised for meat or fur – rabbits not meant to live very long. This is not the goal we want for our companion house rabbits, who are expected to live out their full life potential of 8-10 years. The House Rabbit Society recommends a diet of unlimited fresh grass or Timothy hay, a variety of vegetables, and limited pellets (depending on your rabbits age and other factors).

About Pellets

Dr. Susan Brown states that a typical diet should consist of 1/8 cup pellets per 4 pounds of weight. Young rabbits, still developing muscle and bone, do need to eat pellets but keeping them high-quality will help them to add normal weight without becoming obese. Good options for youngsters are Oxbow 15/23, American Pet Diner alfalfa, or Purina Hi-Fiber Lab Diet.  Once bunny reaches 8 months old, they can be transitioned to a Timothy-based pellet that helps to maintain a healthy weight. Many adults rabbits, don’t even need pellets to maintain a healthy weight. If your rabbit is overweight, then certainly limiting or omitting pellets can help to get bunny back on track. Check with your veterinarian to determine your rabbit’s individual pellet needs.

If you are supplementing a hay diet with pellets, avoid packaged pellets that contain dried bananas, nuts and seeds. These products are too high in sugar and carbohydrates, and can cause obesity, diarrhea and other serious digestive upsets. Limit your rabbit to plain, fresh-looking, dark green rabbit pellets, giving approximately 1/4 cup per 5 lbs. of ideal body weight per day. Buy pellets with a fiber content of no less than 18% and only in a quantity that you will use within one month. Store pellets in air-tight containers and keep away from moisture. Discard pellets that are old, moist, or bug-infested.

Timothy Pellets

There is a healthier alternative to alfalfa pellets: Timothy Pellets. They are available through a couple different sources, including Oxbow Hay Company’s  Bunny Basics/T (for “Timothy”) and American Pet Diner’s Timmy for Rabbits. These pellets are high in fiber and low in protein.

When switching to Timothy-based pellets, remember to make the change gradually. Mix a few Timothy in with your current pellets, increasing the percentage of Timothy pellets over a period of several days until that is all you give.

 
 

 

Health- Grooming

October 3rd, 2009
Babette was rescued as a tiny baby from a feed store.

Babette was rescued as a tiny baby from a feed store.

Rabbits can act as if they’re hardy creatures, but they are, in fact, extremely delicate-from their skin to their spines to their external systems. Care must be taken to maintain their good health. The following basics are necessary to know in order to groom rabbits safely and to help keep them healthy. For information specifically geared towards the caring for long-haired rabbits, see the reprint of the House Rabbit Journal article, “The Well-Groomed Rabbit.”

Shedding

Rabbits shed every 3 months. Every alternate time they’ll have a light shedding that may not be very noticeable. Next they’ll have a heavy shedding that you will not be able to escape.

Rabbits are fastidious groomers. They insist on being clean & tidy and will lick themselves like cats, and like cats, they can get hairballs if they ingest too much hair. Unlike cats however, rabbits cannot vomit. If hairballs are allowed to form they can become gigantic masses of tangled hair & food and will block the stomach exit, causing the rabbit to starve to death while his stomach appears to be very fat.

Rabbits need to be brushed at least weekly. In addition to removing any loose hair, this weekly brushing session helps prepare them for the multiple daily brushings that they must undergo when their heavy shedding begins. Rabbits will shed in different ways. Some rabbits will take a couple of weeks or more to loose their old coat of fur. Other rabbits will be ready to get rid of their old coats all in one day and these rabbits are the ones that cannot be neglected once they start shedding. You can often remove a very large percentage of hair by just pulling it out with your hand. But, however you remove it, remove it as soon as possible or your rabbit will do it during grooming.

Bald spots on rabbits are quite common when they are shedding. I have one Angora rabbit for instance, that gets totally naked except for her face and feet. But, short haired rabbits can do the same thing. If these bald spots occur from shedding, they will begin to grow back within a week or two.

Long Haired Rabbits

These types of rabbits are truly wonderful to look at, but require a lot more attention than their short haired cousins. We recommend that you use your scissors and keep their hair trimmed to one inch or less, otherwise you may be fighting hairballs most of the time.

EXPERT HELP: If you are not comfortable with the above you can have someone, maybe your veterinarian, show you how to do all of the above tasks.

Fleas

Cat flea products are generally safe for rabbits with fleas. It’s better to stick with powders and sprays. Carbaryl is the ingredient preferred by the House Rabbit Society’s veterinary advisors. One must be hesitant to treat rabbits’ fleas aggressively, because the cure can be more stressful than the infestation, so flea baths and dips are not recommended.

A flea comb is a non-toxic device, which takes more patience, but is both physically and psychologically rewarding. Most rabbits learn to love the attention of being flea combed, and it can be used as a supplement to or as your main flea-control program. If you want to control fleas in the environment with sprays or a flea bomb, do only one room at a time and keep your rabbits out of that room for at least 24 hours.

What about topical products, such as Advantage or Frontline?
Topical products are gel-like substances that come in little pre-measured tubes. You apply the solution to your pet’s neck, and you don’t have to treat the household or surrounding areas. But before you try this approach, make sure you know what you are buying!  Advantage, made by Bayer, is the only topical product that is tried and tested safe for rabbits.
DO NOT use Frontline on rabbits!

In general, a very small or dwarf rabbit should be treated with half of a pre-filled tube; bigger rabbits can be given a full dose. Because it takes a while for such topical flea treatments to disseminate through a dog or cat’s coat, HRS recommends that rabbits be kept apart from other animals that have been treated for at least 12 hours. Check with your veterinarian for specifics.

Baths-Not!

Most rabbits would find even an occasional bath quite stressful. NEVER-unless your veterinarian advises it to bring down a fever-should you give a sick rabbit a bath. Because seemingly healthy rabbits can have undiagnosed problems, it’s best not to subject them to the stress of a bath. If your rabbit is very badly infested with fleas, there’s a good chance that he is already compromised and may go into shock when bathed. Also, a thoroughly wet rabbit takes a very long time to dry, so spot cleaning the dirty area is better than an over?all bath. Normal rabbit body temperature is 102. Since they are subject to heat stress, use a warm dryer, not hot.

Mats

Rabbit skin is delicate and highly susceptible to cuts, so mats should not be cut off with scissors. Instead, use a mat splitter or mat rake to take the mass apart. Bunny fur usually requires a finer blade than most cats and dogs.

Skin

Cheyletiella Skin Mange (”Walking Dandruff”) a parasitic infestation of the skin by the Cheyletiella mange mite can become a problem with rabbits. Very often large clumps of hair will detach. Also, noticeable are a dried scale and dandruff within the fur of the rabbit. Rabbits may or may not display increased scratching with this infestation. Treatment is relatively easy with an injectable drug along with a medicated shampoo to get rid of the mites and clear up any lesions. A veterinarian should be consulted for other skin irritations.

Feet

House rabbits who spend all of their time in homes with carpeting and linoleum periodically need to have their toenails trimmed, in the same way as dogs and cats.

Because of risk of infection, declawing is definitely NOT recommended for rabbits.

If excessive digging or scratching is a problem, then a large box of hay or straw, where bunny can pursue these activities, may help.

If the padding (fur) on the feet is worn down, exposing inflamed or callused skin, then soft dry resting pads (rugs) should be provided. Exposed skin that becomes urine burned or broken is very likely to infect. Take extra care that rugs and litterboxes are kept clean and dry.

Incontinence

A rabbit with a urinary infection or a disabled older rabbit may not be able to project urine away from the body. The result may be saturated fur around the hindquarters. For milder cases, shave the areas that get wet so the skin can dry (remember, rabbit fur takes a long time to dry), rinse the affected areas daily, and follow up with a dusting of baby powder or corn starch. For more infirm cases, disposable baby diapers-turned backwards so the tabs are up-do wonders for keeping the moisture away from the skin. (Huggies Step 2 work well for an 8 pound rabbit.)

Compiled with the assistance of Dr. Carolynn Harvey, DVM

About Big White Rabbits…Looking Past the (Pink) Eyes

September 30th, 2009
George came from a Salinas shelter.

George came from a Salinas shelter.

New Zealand rabbits have long been used in laboratories because of their sensitive eyes and skin, for food because of their size and low-cholesterol meat, and as cherished pets. We prefer them as pets, of course.

Most of the white New Zealand rabbits we see are white with pink eyes, but there are New Zealands with black or red fur, as well. The average adult New Zealand is larger than most cats, weighing approximately 11 pounds. They have enormous stand-up ears and great bit “thumpers” (feet). The white New Zealands have very sensitive pink or red eyes, making them ideal candidates for the product-testing world.

Unfortunately, New Zealand Whites are commonly portrayed as the typical Easter bunny. Once small white balls of fluff, the New Zealands soon grow to be large rabbits who quickly outgrow their “starter cages.” All too often, we see adult New Zealand Whites abandoned in the shelters because “the kids can’t hold her any more” or “he got too big.”

Another common issue is their eyes. Some people are put off by the eye coloration and don’t even consider adopting one–an unfortunate decision based solely on eye color.

The House Rabbit Society always seems to have more than our fair share of New Zealand Whites and mixes in foster care. As experienced rabbit caretakers, we have grown particularly fond of this often misunderstood breed. We know what a pleasure they are to have around and what wonderful companions they typically make, but we also know they will be hard for us to adopt out. Many remain in foster care for a year or more before finding their permanent homes, if ever.

We wish people could look past the eye color, past the large intimidating size, and see the gentle giants most New Zealands are. Of course, each rabbit has a different personality, but typically the New Zealands are some of the most amiable, sweet-tempered rabbits there are. Often they are overlooked in favor of their tiny lop friends, but once you share your home with a New Zealand, you will be pleasantly surprised and may just have found your new best friend.

As an adoption counselor I am often asked, “Which breeds are good with children?” Or people will say, “I have a small apartment, so I want to get one of those miniature rabbits.” What’s wrong with these statements?

The main problem is that there are as many exceptions as there are rabbits who fit the description of a particular breed. A related issue is judging an animal by appearance rather than by personality. Anyone who has watched a dwarf rabbit dash from the kitchen to the porch by way of the couch, from about 3 AM through mid-morning will understand immediately the small apartment/small rabbit fallacy. The fact is that there is no apartment too small for even the largest rabbit. And if there were a safe generalization to make, it would be that larger rabbits tend to be less active and therefore require less space than the dwarf breeds.

So beware of sentences that begin “Lops are…” or “Angoras are…”. Such generalizations usually act as screens that obscure the particular, individual animal and focus instead on a (usually inaccurate) abstract. And while it is true that we’re all born with personalities, that we (rabbits and humans alike) do not come out of the womb as blank slates, it is not true that there is a gene called “good with children.” Most rabbits, if they are bred intentionally, as opposed to accidentally, are bred for appearance, not personality. The science of genetics has enabled humans to create a rabbit with a white body and brown ears, nose, feet, and tail, in both large (Californian) and small (Himalayan) sizes but not one who has an innate enjoyment of being grabbed by small sticky hands.

 

Caramel, rescued from a shelter after being labeled a "biter".

Caramel, rescued from a shelter after being labeled a "biter".

Lops are Mellow and other Myths
By Amy Shapiro

The soul behind the face

In terms of appearance, it is much more fruitful to read the individual rabbit — her facial expression, her body position– as opposed to the color of her fur. Gentle rabbits have gentle faces, regardless of breed. Worriers look worried. They rarely roll over on their backs or lie with their back legs extended behind them. Mellow rabbits lounge around any old way, dangling from your arm, in the middle of a busy room. Irritable rabbits have pinched, crabby facial expressions, just like that nasty bank teller who makes you feel like you’re imposing on her when you withdraw your money from her bank. As a student of rabbit nature, these are the observations to treasure.

Hand in hand with breed generalizations go breed preferences. House Rabbit Society fosterers often receive requests such as “We’re looking for a French lop”; or “Our last rabbit was a Dutch. Do you have any of those?” Isn’t the underlying emphasis here again on the abstraction rather than the individual? Even if there were an “Angora personality,” aren’t there also exceptions, variations, contradictions? Which relationships between humans tend to last longer, those based on physical appearance or on personality?

One of the great dangers of breed generalizations is that they can become self-fulfilling prophecies. If your dwarf rabbit bites you, oh well, everyone knows they’re irritable, and nothing can be done about it. More than one dwarf rabbit has ended up at an animal shelter because of behavior that would have been accepted and dealt with in a breed that doesn’t have a reputation for aggressiveness.

Another insidious aspect of stereotyping is it allows entire groups of animals to be categorized and then discarded. The terms “lab rabbit” and “meat rabbit” are examples. What’s the difference between a lab rabbit and a house rabbit? Not a thing, as anyone can tell you who has rescued the former and watched her transform into the latter. It’s all in the name, but the very act of naming supports the notion that some rabbits belong in labs and some in stew-pots.

And where do all these grand notions leave that special character, the mix-breed? Implicitly, if not explicitly, breed generalizations favor the pure-bred rabbit. The mix-breed is viewed as a second-class citizen. When applied toward the human species, this type of attitude is, at best, snobbery, and more often, bigotry.

We all make generalizations about other creatures all the time. These can range from the relatively benign to the positively hateful and dangerous. What is racism, sexism, speciesism, or any of the other us-against-them ideologies but a collection of generalizations based on appearance or lineage or religious preference? People who wouldn’t dream of making generalizations about humans based on a person’s “breed” (e.g., nationality, ethnic background, etc.) feel quite comfortable in sizing up non-humans by the color of their fur or direction of their ears. To say that lops are mellow is no different than saying that blondes are dumb or Sagittarians tactless.

Your rabbit is his very own self and nobody else. The process of getting to know him, and vice-versa, requires no generalizing. In fact, it is a very particular experience, shared by the two of you. His beauty does not reside in whether he has “papers” any more than his love for you is based on your ancestry. Once the blinders of generalization are removed, the world becomes a much more interesting place.